Category Archives: How to Assemble and fit a Chandelier

This category is for thoughts and experiences people have had in fitting chandeliers and wall lights. So if you are a tradesman and can spread the gospel or just an enthusiastic amateur then share your knowledge here. There is also some great insight from our expert Renata on chandelier assembly

Light Bulbs for Chandeliers 3

Buyers Guide to Light Bulbs for Chandeliers

Light Bulbs for Chandeliers 1Chandeliers can greatly influence your living room’s atmosphere. Through well-chosen chandeliers, you have the power of creating the mood of your choice and redefining your living room. However, selecting the right lighting system for your chandeliers can be tricky because there are several factors you should take into consideration.

Here’re some guidelines that can help you navigate shopping as far as the lighting system, for chandeliers are concerned.

So, when shopping around for lights for your chandeliers, be sure to take the following factors into consideration:

Determine size of your living room

Ensure you know the dimensions of your living room. This information will help you determine whether you require small chandeliers or big ones. Small chandeliers are not likely to stand-out in big rooms while large ones might end up overwhelming a small living space. First, you need to add up the length and the width of the living room in question. Then convert the sum into inches to give you the diameter of the lighting system for your chandeliers that can perfectly fit that room.

The dining table’s size is paramount

After measuring the size of your living room, proceed to measure the size of your table. In particular, take the width the table in question. Ensure that your chandeliers are never wider than your table. As a rule, make your chandelier about 12 inches narrower than the table.

Measure the distance between your ceiling and the table surface

If your ceiling is eight-feet, ensure that your chandeliers are able to hang about 30 to 34 inches above your tabletop. For higher ceilings, hang your chandeliers an extra 3 inches for each additional foot. But for 9-feet or higher ceilings, purchase a 2-tier chandelier so that the left space doesn’t look too empty.

The Light Bulb Moments

As with common lighting systems, chandeliers provide for options like energy efficiency as well as bulb variations. Here is a breakdown on what you should know as far as the light bulb moments are concerned.

Incandescent Halogen: These are the latest version (lighting) of the traditional old incandescent bulb. These lighting systems are around 30 % more efficient in terms of energy consumption and they can last for up to 3 times longer as compared to traditional incandescent bulbs. They work well with dimmers plus other lighting controls.


CFLs, also referred to as compact fluorescent lamps, are somehow a smaller version of long-tubed fluorescent lights. They are about 3-4 times more efficient. Moreover, they can last 6-10 times longer than their traditional incandescent bulb counterparts.


LEDs are the most energy-efficient type of lighting system on the market today. These lighting systems work well with chandeliers and use an advanced technology to optimize performance.

They are about 5 times more energy efficient. Moreover, they can last for up to 25 times longer than traditional ones, making them a perfect choice for your chandeliers.

 Light Bulbs for Chandeliers 2Word of advice

Not all light bulbs are compatible with all the chandeliers available on the market. So, ensure to double check all details, including the manufacturer’s specifications.

The Manual Chandelier Winch

Why would you use a Manual Winch?

With the onset of electric specialist chandelier winches on the surface there does not seem to be a place for the manual lighting winch. Electric winches have been developed with some great features like the contact plate system, which means that the light is just lowered on a wire rope alleviating the need for a separate lighting flex. This example of a lighting winch is now state or the art and can be easily installed out of the box and you could almost categorise as ‘plug and play’.

Lighting WinchThere are however a couple of drawbacks which whilst normally not an issue can be problematic for certain installations. Firstly the winch has a contact plate system which mean that the red disc has to pass through the ceiling through a hole of approximately 90mm diameter. Secondly the motorised lift unit is fairly large with dimensions of around 350mm by 350mm albeit that the thickness is just 80mm. A combination of these factory means that in some lighting applications then these factors restrict the use of the electric lighting lift.

Types of Manual Lighting Winches

Manual systems in there basic form are like the winches used on boat trailers. There is a geared mechanism to wind the cable in and a ratchet brake to prevent the winch from unwinding.  The level of sophistication above this will have a double braking system for safety which is really essential of lighting application where a heavy light is being suspended above people. Clearly any failure of the system is likely to result in personal injury which must be avoided at all costs. For this reason we always recommend the use of a worm gear model as shown below.

Worm Gear Lighting WinchThe advantage of the worm gear mechanism is that it can be turned by the handle to lift the light or to lower it but the inherent engineering design aspect of a worm gear stop it from rotating in the reverse direction. This is because the frictional force on the worm gear is so high when it is being operated from the winch drum end that it simply cannot be turned. This means that the worm gear inch is a natural choice for lighting installations where clearly safety is of paramount importance.

A Typical Installation using a Worm Gear Winch

The example featured below needed a winch to be slotted between 2 joists which were just 175mm apart.  Even this was too narrow for the worm gear winch but by chiseling out the width to 200mm and providing additional support for the thinning of the joist then the worm gear winch fitted perfectly.

worm_gear_winch_250kg_03The operating  handle is removable so this means that it could be taken off and stowed away, allowing for a neat hatch to be constructed over the unit. The hatch is not pictured as this was completed by a joiner after our winch installation was complete. The winch is also very high load rated at 250kg which  is generally more than adequate for all but the largest of chandeliers. As you can see from this then all lighting winch installations have there own specific requirements so it is important to keep an open mind and select the best type for the job.

Chandelier installation

Although chandeliers installation isn’t difficult it has to be done by a competent person. There are two main ceiling structures: concrete and wooden. Chandeliers have to be hung from a structure capable of carrying the chandeliers weight, never from the plaster board.

Concrete is my least favourite ceiling structure due to a) the complexity of anchoring the chandelier hook into the concrete and b) overcoming the awkward void which can vary from 1 inch to 3 feet. Unless you are a very practical person or were overseeing the construction/reconstruction of the actual room you will not be aware of the voids existence not to mention the size. For the small voids you can use the plate hook, for the larger voids there are various types of brackets available.

First of all you need to find out the exact construction so a thorough site inspection is critical. You need to know whether there is under floor heating and if so how deep it is to make sure there is absolutely no chance you could drill through the heating pipe. If you cannot be 100% certain then do not proceed with the installation because damaging the under floor heating pipe would release gallons of water which cannot be stopped and the thing you can do is to put bucket under the flow, stop the feed to the tank and empty the buckets for an hour or two. Next is to call your insurance company to agree the commencement of repair works which basically means digging up some of the concrete, repair of the pipe and restoring everything to the original state. This would cost you hundreds of hours on the phone and thousands of pounds in damages and delays so your insurance premium would go up ten fold. Other hidden dangers are various cables and in older properties gas pipes which can be literally anywhere and I actually hang one of my chandeliers of a disused gas pipes which was just in the perfect spot.

Another difficult aspect is the actual anchoring so please make sure you are using proper concrete fixing




and taking into consideration the distance between the holes on the plate hook


because if these are too close together you may have to make a separate base plate of 4×2 or similar to avoid jeopardising the integrity of that particular concrete spot by the close proximity of drilling.

And yet another difficult aspect is accessing the concrete ceiling. There are many types of suspended ceilings and the larger the void the larger the access point for the installation is required.  A competent project manager will have all the necessary chandelier fixings done prior to the suspended ceiling installation going up however such creatures are few and far between and I would say almost mythical. A great way and sometimes the only way is to hide the access holes by a ceiling rose. Just make sure the ceiling rose is suitable for the room.

Wooden ceilings are easy in comparison




however as you have to attach the chandelier hook to a joist if there is none in the right position you may need to access the joist to fit a noggin. Access can be either from above or below depending which option is less destructive. On a recent installation we had to move a double bed, a cot and newly laid carpet to put in a noggin, which was easier than taking off the new ceiling rose, cutting a hole in the ceiling to get to the joists from beneath, putting new plaster board piece in, re-plastering and putting the ceiling rose back up. Both options are time consuming and any unnecessary work could be avoided by careful project management or just a bit of common sense –do the messy hook installation before you put the tiles, hard floor or new carpets down, before the plaster board goes up and most certainly before the ceiling rose.

Whatever the structure, please take few minutes to think and plan ahead and if you struggle to come up with a solution just call us to see if we can come up with something.

Take care.


Detailed assembly of chandelier 10740 12+6+3

These are the detailed instructions for chandelier 10740 12+6+3, which is definitely my favourite classic crystal chandelier especially in the Swarovski Spectra.

To start take the instructions out and have a good look at the base diagram, below left.


You can clearly see three bases for arms and numbering for all parts which corresponds to the packages within the box.


I will be doing this installation on a clothes rail, but you can tie the rope directly to the hook as this would eradicate any unnecessary moving.  The less you move the chandelier the better as there is less chance of damage to the crystals.  Please also make sure that the chandelier isn’t in your, your children’s, or your pets way so if you need to leave the room you will not come back to an injury or a broken chandelier.


Unwrap all the packages that are not numbered, these are the central parts and are very obvious as to where they go.  Hang this top central stem on the rope to keep out of harms way.



Take to bottom stem, loosen the grub screw and unscrew the central holding nut to take off the base plate.



The base plate will be completely separate from the plate cover.


Take the packet 4. and unwrap all the arms.  Take the holding nut from the end of the arm, place the arm into the base plate and replace the holding nut.  The arm has a predetermined position so make sure the arm sits flat on the base plate, a little movement left and right should slip the arm into the right place.



Tighten the holding nut only enough to the point where the nut bites so the arm doesn’t move freely, do not tighten any further as this could pull the arm screw out and permanently damage the arm.



Place all 6 arms in the correct position.



Put the flex through the central hole of the base plate and rest the base plate on the base cover.  Connect all 8 blue wires together  and all 8 brown wires together and slip the base plate into the base cover.



Place the central holding nut back on and tighten the lower grub screw.



Put the flex through the central cavity of the top base plate, screw the top base plate on and tighten the grub screw on the central holding nut.



Undo the grub screw on the central holding nut, unscrew and remove the base plate from the base plate cover.



Take arms 2. and place them into the top base plate – do not over tighten the nuts when securing the arms to the base plate.



And as with the previous base plate, put the flex through the centre, rest the base plate on the base plate cover, do the wiring, put the base plate back on the base plate cover and secure in position by placing the central holding nut back on and tighten the lower grub screw.



Take the flex through the centre stem of the top half, screw the top half into the central holding nut and tighten the grub screw.  Please make sure that all the visible thread is within the central holding nut before you tighten the grub screw.



Take the lowest base plate cover off on place the arms 10. into the base plate remembering all the points as per previous bases.



When all arms are done you can start the wiring.



All blues together, all brown together.



Put the base cover back on.



Place the dishes 7. and 6. onto the end base plate.



Put rings x onto the lower and middle arms.




Place trimmings A onto the top and bottom dish.



Place trimmings B onto the inverted top dish onto every other eye so they are above the top arms.



Place crystal chains onto the inverted top dish so the chains hang between the arms.





Place the trimmings D onto the bottom of the chain C.



Place the chains E onto the ends of arms 2. and trimmings F onto the end of chain E.



Place trimmings G onto the glass rings of arms 4.



Place chains H from the splitter on trimming G under the arms 10. to the corresponding splitter on the neighbouring arm.



Place trimmings I onto the ends of arms 4.



Place trimmings J onto the glass rings of arms 10.



Place chains K onto the eyelets on the dish 6.



Hook the ends of chains K into the splitters of trimmings J.



Place trimmings L onto the ends of arms 10.



Place chains M from the splitter of the trimmings L onto the corresponding splitter on the neighbouring arm.



Put all the arm dishes on.




Put the white candle tubes over the lamp holder.



Put the glass skirts over the white tubes of leave these off if you prefer.



Put the light bulbs in.




And now you should check that everything is connected.

I found ball N still in the box so I put it in the central nut 5.

Chain E also needed connecting onto the dishes of arms 4.



Well and then you can sit down and have a look at what you achieved.



If you have any difficulties please give us a call or you can choose to have the chandelier sent assembled which adds the postage cost but reduces your time spent on the chandelier assembly.

Chandelier assembly 65080 03/19



This is a very simple, but nevertheless beautiful chandelier.  It is suitable for small rooms, corridors, landings… especially in low ceiling areas. The assembly is simple but still if you don’t have any previous experience this may be of some assistance.



Part one is the base. This is to be screwed into the ceiling joist, the electricity cable goes through the hole with the white washer and the earth connects into the earth tab.



Loosen the grub screws and insert the rods into the rod holders.


The tube will protrude about 2mm on the inner side of the tube holders and tighten up the grub screw back up.


The rim has a flat horizontal ridge which the frame is sitting on.


Take the largest crystal piece of the chain in your hand , open the hook slightly and place in the hole.


Close the hook so the crystal chain doesn’t detaches itself from the frame.


When you have done this connect the other end of the crystal chain into the central plate.


Next job is to connect the two together.


Slide the rods inside the basket and rest the frame on the ends of the rods.


These two should fit together snugly, if this is not the case please loosen the grub screw and adjust.



This is detailed picture of how it should sit.


At this point you would be placing your chandelier onto the base plate attached to the ceiling.


The lower screw adjusts so you can regulate the position of your basket.


The electric wiring is not complicated either however has to be done by a COMPETENT person.


This is what you would see in the centre of the basket.


Screw the central nut back on to hold the chandelier in place.


And this is where you have completed the assembly.  Hope you have found these instruction helpful, however if there are any steps you find difficult please do call us for advice.

Here is the chandelier assembly example being discussed in this article.

Chandelier assembly – one base two levels (8+4)


Chandelier assembly may be daunting at first sight, however it is quite simple and rather rewarding  when you see what you have achieved.


First of all find the central stem and suspend it in a position where you have plenty of room or directly on a chandelier hook.  Make sure that the chandelier is out of reach of children and animals so that neither comes to any harm.




Unscrew the lower most nut and take off the glass dishes and wire cover, placing the parts in a row so you know how to put these back on.






Take the nut of an arm and place into the base plate, put the nut back on and tighten up. Tighten only enough so the arm stays in position.  Over tightening will force the crew out of the arm socket and the arm would need replacing.



E24Do the same to arm 2…




















and 4.










Do the same to the outer layer.











So all arms are in.








Put all blue wires together and secure in a connector.  Put all brown wires together and secure in a connector.







Put the wire cover and glass dishes back on.








From now on all the chandeliers assembly differs so I will be specific to 10740 8+4.

Put glass rings on outer arms 7. and hang trimmings C on.






Add trimmings B onto the the end of arms.








Hang trimming A onto the top and bottom dish.







Put chain F onto the inverted top dish and hang trimming H onto the end of this chain.








Put chain E onto the ends of inner arms.








Connect the loose chains from the upper splitter from chain F to the splitter of chain E.








Hang chain D from splitter on chain E to the neighbouring splitter on chain E.








Place dishes onto the arms and hang the loose chains from the lower splitter of chain F onto the trimmings eye on the dish.




Place tubes onto the lamp holder.







Place the glass tubes over the candle tubes and the ball G onto the bottom nut and you are ready for the light bulbs and hanging in the final position.

Tips on Chandelier Assembly

Can I assemble my own Chandelier?

When you first open the box of your newly purchased chandeliers it can be a bit daunting. At first you will probably think why did it not come assembled? However after inspection of the final article it is clear to see why. Certainly for a glass armed traditional chandelier then the arms are very delicate and the when the chandelier is assembled the only safe way to keep it is by hanging. What ever you do, don’t put the chandelier down on the floor once it has been assembled as the weight of the chandelier is likely to break the arm that it is resting on with quite catastrophic consequences. This is particularly true with a large chandelier. A chandelier of diameter 1meter would typically weight over 30kg and the only way to support it is by the chain. The design is very clever and transmits all the loaded from the crystal trimmings through the arms and to the central stem. The load is then safely transmitted up the chain to the ceiling hook which clearly needs to be securely attached to the ceiling. So to cut along story short the traditional chandelier has to be carefully wrapped an packaged to ensure that it does not break in transit and this has the secondary benefit of reducing transportation costs.

Once you have opened the box then for sure you can assemble the chandelier yourself you just need to adhere to some best practise guidelines to take you through the process.

What method do I use to assemble my Chandelier

I do not intend to cover all aspects of chandelier assembly here but will just provide some pointers and will focus on the traditional chandelier as opposed to the contemporary chandelier . Contemporary chandeliers are very varied and different on construction so the assembly of particular to the particular product, whereas with traditional chandeliers the approach is more standard.

If your chandelier is more than 15kg then you will need to assemble the chandelier at ceiling height unless of course you have a winch system to pull it into position. This is because it is unsafe  to climb a ladder or platform holding a heavy jet fragile crystal chandelier to hang it in position. The best approach here is to assemble the carcass at ground level  and then to lift this in position and hand on the crystals with the carcass in position. By assemble the carcass,  I mean connect the arms in to the central stem and connect the wiring for the arms to the central flex for all the tiers of the chandelier. Once in position the hanging of the crystals is then best done from a platform to avoid the necessity of walking up and down the  ladders many times for the multitude of crystal trimmings that will be on the chandelier.

For a small chandelier then the best strategy is to assemble at ground level. For this you need a suitable anchor point to suspend the chandelier from which can typically be from a line connected to the chandelier hook or using a structure like a coat rail for lighter chandeliers. Once the chandelier has been assembled at ground level it can simply be hung from the hook and the electrician can make the wiring connections.


How to fit a Chandelier Winch

Why do I need a Chandelier Winch ?

The right chandelier does look stunning and if chosen wisely will complement a space well and for the more adventurous interior designer, the chandelier will often be the centrepiece to the room. There is however an issue on for how long that sparking crystal chandelier will continue to look fabulous before the dust starts to settle and that glisten starts to disappear. Now if you have your chandelier in a room with a relatively low ceiling then it is now a problem to gain access to clean the chandelier, but if your chandelier is positioned high on an ornate ceiling or at the top of a stairwell then access is not straightforward. In this case the only sensible solution is to fit a chandelier winch .

Is it easy to fit a Chandelier Winch?

The ease by which a chandelier winch can be fitted is all dependent on the type of winch and where it needs to be installed. Some winches are large electric motor devices  which, due to their size, are fitted remotely from the top of the chandelier chain and then have a pulley system to lift and drop the chandelier. These systems do work well providing you have somewhere to house the winch as invariably they are too large to fit into the floor void between the ceiling and the floor of the next storey. The preferred winches from Classical Chandeliers are of a compact size so they can actually be placed within the floor void as a self contained unit. This makes installation far simpler.

How to fit the Chandelier Winch centred on a Joist?

The 100kg operating load chandelier lift which has a maximum lift of 5 metres is just 330mm by 330mm wide and has a depth of just 60mm which means that it can easily be fitted into the floor void. In fact the dimensions of this winch, together with the 150 kg operating load chandelier lifts, are compact enough to be neatly housed actually between the ceiling joists, where the standard 400mm joist spacing has been used with 50mm wide sawn joist timber. For a new build this is perfect and assuming that the positioning of the joists is right for where the centre of the chandelier need to be this is fine. However, invariably you need to position the winch just where the joist is and do not have the luxury of sliding the winch in between the joists. This means that the installation process is slightly more complex so I will cover this senatio first and then the simpler option.

One way to install the winch is shown in this installation drawing:-
chandelier winch installation

The procedure is to cut hole in the plasterboard at the position where the winch requires fitting and then to trim back the central joist by 40mm. If the ceiling is load bearing check with a structural engineer first, but then you would typically strengthen the joist by a process known as “joist sistering”. Here 2 reinforcing members are screwed and glued to the side of the trimmed joist to reinforce it due to the trimmed base. If the joist is holding a large load you may need to prop the joist prior to sistering to avoid any sag in the joist prior to the reinforcement members being put into position and the glue setting. After this has been done you can simply add the winch mounting timbers as shown in the installation sketch and then bolt the winch to these using 8mm diameter bolts.

It is always advisable to make the winch accessible for maintenance purposes because it does not matter how reliable they are,  there is always a possibility of failure. To this effect in this drawing a ceiling rose is used which is recessed in the back for the winch and then screwed through into the joists. Now it is advisable to use a rose which is sufficiently strong to allow it just to be screwed into position as you would not want to use glue so it cam be easily removed in the future  if necessary.

Fitting a Chandelier Lift Between Joists

Fitting the chandelier lift between the joists can easily be done using a procedure similar above but it is much simpler. There is no need to trim and joists or perform any sistering as you can simply connect mounting timbers between the joists and bolt the chandelier lift up to these. In this case there is also no need to recess the ceiling rose as the chandelier winch can be fitted higher up between the joists. The wiring is then very straight forward for both these scenarios because the winches draw only around 200-250 watts which means that the normally lighting circuit electrics can generally be used.  And finally  if you have any questions feel free to ask Classical Chandeliers.

Chandelier Winches

A chandelier winch is often viewed as an extravagant gadget when considering the installation on chandelier! However, this is not normally the case. Chandelier winches can actually be an important necessity. If for example you are fitting a chandelier in a high position over a stairway then a simple scaffold tower could not be used and bespoke scaffolding would be needed. In this case the chandelier winch would pay for itself  the first time access was needed for maintenance. Now maintenance is not just for major faults and cleaning it is also for simple bulb changes. Ordinarily,  aesthetically designed halogen candle bulbs would be used and although they do have a rated life of 1000 or 2000 hours they do suffer from intermittent failures unlike the far more reliable modern LED bulbs. For this reason with a chandelier having a large number of bulbs then the probability of an individual bulb failure is quite high. So all in all you are going to need access so a chandelier winch is the obvious solution.

Chandelier Winch Choices.

There are many chandelier winches on the market. Traditionally they used to be a big motor connected to a pulley system which is then used to raise and lower the chandelier. These worked fine for large buildings where there is sufficient space to position the winch but if you need to hide the winch in the floor void between the ceiling and upper floor then these are less than practical. Now there are compact winches available that can be fitted into a floor void. As an example you can now purchase a winch which will take loads of up to 150kg and has an 11 metre cable which is just 33cm by 33cm and just 11cm deep. This makes installation easy and they can even be installed on the ceiling and hidden by a decorative purpose built cover.
The other important aspect to cover is the sospistication of the winch. A traditional winch would need a separate electrical circuit and switch together with a connector which needs to be manually separated to disconnect the lamp wiring when the winch is lowered. Alternatively a long cable would be used which is coiled in the attic space and dropped down when the winch is lowered. All of this complexity is now solved with modern systems. Look for a winch that has a remote control operation and has an connection plate for the lamps wiring which automatically disconnects when the chandelier is lowered.
The final consideration is safety. A chandelier can be very heavy and it is most important that the winch is reliable both from a personal safety perspective and to avoid an expensive catastrophe if the chandelier crashes to the ground, For this reason pick a chandelier winch that has safety overrides fitted, stop limits on lowering and ensure that it is used within the rated loads.

Go for the easy life with a Chandelier Winch

So the chandelier winch has moved from being an item of technical interest which was historically restricted to use in large government buildings, palaces and museums to a practical and commercially viable choice for peoples homes. So if you want the easy life style and not to be forever looking up at that chandelier with a failed bulb thinking, “shall I get the builders in to change the bulb” then move with the times and have a winch installed.

Assembling your Chandelier

Many people ask, “How does my Chandelier come?” and ” Does it need Assembling?” . Well certainly with chandeliers from Classical Chandelier they come carefully packed with the arms and all delicate components taken off and individually wrapped. This is because a chandelier, being made of crystal and glass, is inherently fragile and consequently cannot be sent in an assembled form. This also means that the size of the packaging is minimised so as to keep delivery costs as low as possible.

When people fist open the box there keen anticipation can often turn into a mild form of panic when they see the array of delicate chandelier parts meticulously packed in the box and they wonder where to start. But do not panic. What does at first sight appear to be a most complex and intricate crystal jigsaw puzzle is actually quite achievable and is normally viewed as quite an interesting and rewarding task. But where do you start?

The first thing to do is to find the instructions which are an A4 sheet showing a diagrammatic representation of how to assemble your chandelier. This will clearly show the best process to assemble it in and most importantly which parts go where. The best thing to do then is to unwrap all the parts and lay them out, ideally on a table so you can see what you have and compare the parts with the instruction sheet.

Now you do need a strategy for the assembly and installation process.

  • If your chandelier is small , say a single tier with 5 arms, and weighing under 10kg then you can find a place to hang the top part from and build the entire chandelier at ground level. From there you can simply climb your ladder or steps and hang on the hook on the ceiling and get the electrician to connect the electrics.
  • If your chandelier is larger then unless you are a body builder who is nimble enough to climb steps with a 20kg delicate crystal chandelier then you will need another plan. The best way forward here is to hang the top part of the chandelier from the ceiling and to start assembling from there. Initially screwing the arms in place and then gradually building the chandelier and then hanging on the crystal trimmings. If the chandelier is 2 tier then you will need to assemble the top tier, get the electrician to make the intermediary connections, and then the lower tier and then get the electrician to make the final lower connections. This way you can work in harmony with the electrician to achieve a fabulous result

So now, with a little patience and care you are there. Your fabulous crystal chandelier is hanging in that perfect position just as planned and all you need to do now is to sit back and admire it.